My 4 Day Charlevoix Itinerary to Recharge in Quebec

When I booked a relaxing trip to Charlevoix I never expected to end up jumping off the roof of a historic hotel or getting to first base with a cow!

But that’s exactly what I love about this region. It feels calm and scenic, but there’s always something unexpected waiting around the corner.

After a busy stretch at a conference in Quebec City, I headed out on this 4 day Charlevoix itinerary with a group of new travel friends to unwind — but if you know me, I never fully relax!

I found hidden art galleries, soaked in a Nordic spa, cruised fjords I didn’t even know existed in Canada and, yes, awkwardly bonded with a Highland cow who decided I was lick worthy.

Whether you want to sip honey wine by the St. Lawrence, wander through art galleries, watch belugas up close or eat your body weight in goat cheese, Charlevoix delivers. It’s one of those spots in Quebec where you can slow down but never feel bored.

I’ll break down what I loved, what didn’t work for me and what I’d change next time so you can plan a trip that helps you recharge without feeling stuck in tourist traps.

Thanks to Tourism Charlevoix and Bonjour Quebec for hosting me. All thoughts and opinions are my own.

Day 1: Baie-Saint-Paul

Stroll Saint-Jean-Baptiste Street

We left Quebec City around 10 in the morning and made our way into Charlevoix by midday, starting in Baie-Saint-Paul.

This town is the artsy heart of the region — small, walkable and full of hidden surprises.

Galerie d’art Iris is the only year round art gallery in the area. I’m not usually an art gallery girl but the eclectic mix was beautiful. I was trying to figure out how I could fit a piece in my overstuffed carryon.

I wandered into a couple others too but none quite matched Iris in terms of capturing my attention.

If you’re more into art than I am, you could easily lose multiple days in all the galleries! Each one features different styles and artists.

There’s a little river at the end of the street. It was raining so I didn’t make it that far but on a sunny day it would be a lovely stroll.

Lunch at Le Saint-Pub

Lunch was at Le Saint-Pub, the local brewery right in town.

They’re known for their beer flights — which I couldn’t try since I’m celiac.

It’s one of the few breweries that still sells bottles instead of just cans. They’re a cool company that survived Covid and have been expanding since.

The food was fine for me but not the best for celiac options. Next time I’d probably try one of the cafes instead.

It’s clearly a popular place cause even on a Monday at lunch it was packed!

Honey Wine Tasting at Hydromel Charlevoix

We stopped at Hydromel Charlevoix to see how they make honey wines and spirits.

I don’t really drink so it didn’t impress me as much but people who do will love it.

I’m always fascinated by how people adapt alcohol so it was fun to see them using honey for different types of wines — even reds — plus rum and gin.

I tried a couple sips but I’m not great at telling the difference.

It’s a really cute shop and you can do tastings or split a pack of four small bottles if you just want a sample.

My favourite part was seeing the bees that they sell with in like cardboard sheets with their honeycomb! Could you imagine how mad the airport security would be if I tried to fly that home??

Evening: Settle In and Explore

After our first day, we checked into Club Med where we’d stay for the night.

That evening we wandered the hotel, watched a Cirque du Soleil demo for the kids and listened to a band play. It was cool but a little overstimulating. After the conference and the full day, I would have preferred to head to the waterfront and listen to the waves.

If you can, find a spot to watch the sunset over the St Lawrence — the views around Charlevoix are unreal!

Day 2: Le Massif de Charlevoix & Nordic Spa

4 AM Sunrise

I woke up at four in the morning to catch the sunrise over the St Lawrence.

Was it worth it? Absolutely!

Watching the light come up over the mountains from my room was one of those moments that makes you forget how tired you are. If you can drag yourself out of bed, do it at least once on this trip.

And if you can do it in the comfiest robe in all of Charlevoix with an unlimited supply of coffee, even better!

Ride the Gondola Up Le Massif

After breakfast, we headed over to Le Massif de Charlevoix — the most popular skiing and mountain biking mountain in Charlevoixe.

You take a gondola up the mountain which sounds fancy but heads up, it’s not some shiny glass capsule with perfect views. The windows are scratched up from skis and bikes, so don’t expect Sentosa vibes.

Still, the ride is fun and the views once you’re at the top are stunning!

It’s dog friendly, and very service dog friendly (I asked!).

We didn’t mountain bike (not my vibe) but we did walk around and hit a few lookouts.

The views are really gorgeous. You get the perfect mix of the forest with the shores of the St. Lawrence (which honestly is so big it kinda feels like an ocean from this height!).

Just know this isn’t exactly accessible terrain. If you use a wheelchair or have a mobility impairment, you’re kinda out of luck here — it’s all uneven paths. There’s no like major drop unless you trail run/hike down the mountain, but even the flatter paths made me a bit unsteady on my feet without my service dog.

You can spend an hour or two up here easily just enjoying the sites. Or, spend longer and mountain bike if your knees are more structurally sound than mine!

Say Hi to the Cows at Le Germain

After our mountain wandering, we headed to Le Germain for the Nordic Spa.

Before I even got into the pools, I managed to get to first base with a Highland cow.

They’re adorable, fluffy and apparently very into giving surprise licks!

Highly recommend wandering down to the farm area if you stay here. They have bunnies, sheep, alpacas (well the neighbours do but you can see them, too), and chickens all just behind the spa area.

They came first, so I’m glad they kept the animals even when they added the nordic spa. It adds a really nice background noise to it!

Unwind at the Nordic Spa

The spa itself is one of my favourite parts of the whole trip. There’s an outdoor warm pool, a truly hot pool and a cold plunge if you’re braver than me. I hopped in for about 10 seconds, whisper-screamed “I don’t care if it’s good for my heart!” and bolted back to the warm pool.

Inside they’ve got saunas and a eucalyptus steam room — skip the cedar if you’re allergic, like me. But my friends said it was really wonderful.

It can get busy, and you’ll probably hear farm noises while you soak. And yes, sometimes it smells like manure when the wind shifts.

But honestly after like 30 seconds, you don’t notice it. I grew up as a horse girl, so maybe I have a higher tolerance but no one I was with said a bad word about it either.

Bring a book, take it slow, and soak until you prune!

Just make sure you hydrate! I spent my time reading in the shade, luckily. But many lounge spots are in the sun where you should definitely bring sunblock and some electrolytes if you’re gonna hang out for very long.

The Le Germain has truly the best food I’ve ever eaten. I still dream about that goat cheese salad! So if you still have energy after the spa, definitely grab dinner there.

Day 3: Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie National Park

How to Get There

Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie National Park is about an hour’s drive from Baie-Saint-Paul. The roads wind through the Charlevoix hills with a few “is this the right turn?” moments — but it’s well signed once you’re close.

You’ll want a car for this because public transport is basically non-existent.

There’s a big parking area and a visitor centre where you can grab a map, fill your water bottle, and get your bearings before you head out.

Hike to the Lookout

This was our big day exploring the park. It’s one of those places that makes you wonder why nobody talks about fjords in Quebec — the rock cliffs and winding river feel straight out of Norway or New Zealand!

Seriously, I felt like I was back in Milford Sound.

It’s especially gorgeous on a slightly misty or rainy day. That’s when the waterfalls come out!

We did a short hike up to a lookout spot called L’Érablière. You get a view over the river in each direction, including the really cute covered bridge. You’ll spot kayakers and canoers, and get a misty mountain vibe straight from the Hobbit.

It’s about 2.5 km but don’t be fooled — it’s not an accessible trail if you have mobility issues.

The terrain gets rough in places and the heat did not do my chronic pain any favours. It’s got a lot of stairs that made me wish I remembered a knee brace when I was trying to pack for 2 weeks in the tiniest bag.

If you’re more adventurous, there are many other trails you can explore, as well!

Cruise the River

After the hike, we took a riverboat cruise through the gorge. This is such a chill way to see the cliffs up close — no extra effort required.

The park guide talks about how the river shaped the land and what wildlife you might spot (spoiler: mostly birds).

Because the group was like 90% french, they didn’t do an English translation which kinda sucked. They handed out a couple English pamphlet books that you had to try to figure out yourself, but most of us bailed on that to just look at the surroundings instead.

I do wish my 12 years of French classes meant I could do more than say “frog” or “don’t touch the red button” in French.

It’s a calm ride. You get close to a waterfall at one point, but otherwise you’re mostly going to hear birdsong and the soft flow of the river.

The best spot is at the back of the boat where you can stand up and wander around. Inside, it’s a little more cramped and the windows are hard to see through.

The guides did a great job dividing us into 2 groups so everyone had space on the back for a while.

Day 4: Whale Watching & Ziplining

Morning Whale Watching

We kicked off the final day with a whale watching tour out of Baie-Sainte-Catherine.

If you’ve never done whale watching in Quebec, you’re in for a treat! The St. Lawrence is one of the best spots in the world for seeing belugas, minkes, and sometimes even bigger whales if you’re lucky.

Apparently it’s a year round home to the belugas, so you have a pretty good chance to spot one any time you come!

We wore these bright orange jumpsuits that made me feel like an Oompa Loompa in a survival movie.

They’re bulky but worth it — you’re gonna get soaked on the way back if the weather turns. Which it did.

We saw belugas and minkes cruising by the boat, and honestly, even though we were freezing on the return, it was still worth every splash!

I felt kinda snobby after 3 amazing whale watching tours in Alaska. Minke don’t fluke (where they show their tail before they dive), and they don’t do as dramatic of a blowhole breath. So while we saw a ton of them very close to the boat, I was less impressed than I was with the belugas.

We saw belugas from quite a distance since you can’t get close to them for environmental regulations. I was floored! I’ve always wanted to see one in the wild and I was sure I’d have to wait until I ever made it to Manitoba to see them.

Bring layers, a hat that won’t fly off, and a dry bag for your phone or camera. I got an upsized jacket so I could fit my camera inside to protect it from the rain.

Afternoon Ziplining at the Fairmont

After we warmed up and dried off, we headed to the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu for one last adventure: ziplining off the roof of a historic hotel.

Because what better way to say goodbye to Charlevoix than throwing yourself off a building attached to a wire?

This zipline is run by Projet Vertical and starts right from the top of the hotel. It’s missing out on marketing itself as a Mission Impossible adventure cause you go through the backrooms and vent areas of the hotel to get to the roof.

You get a killer view over the St. Lawrence before you launch yourself. It’s surprisingly chill if you’re not terrified of heights — you get up to about 50 km per hour but it feels more fun than scary.

And it’s over pretty quickly, so you scream once or twice and you’re done.

You can keep the adventure going with a 3 hour via ferrata. But I can barely hold onto my pen, let alone the side of a mountain!

Optional Private Walking Trail

If you want to extend your stay, there’s a little walking trail behind the Fairmont that’s worth checking out. It’s mostly flat with a few stairs to some of the lookout points.

Not fully accessible, but doable if you don’t mind a bit of uneven ground.

Plus, the views from the clifftop are gorgeous.

It’s really quiet so you may run into like 2 or 3 people on the whole trail. It’s a really great spot to go to see the sunset.

We stayed at the Fairmont for the night and had the second best meal of our trip before heading back to Quebec City to fly home.

Where to Stay

Le Germain Charlevoix Hotel & Spa

If I could only pick one spot to stay again, it’d be Le Germain. Hands down!

The bed was so comfy I almost asked if they’d let me ship the mattress home. The bedding is so popular they literally sell it — and I get why.

The Nordic Spa here is my favourite part of the whole trip.

Floating in a warm pool with a view of farm fields and Highland cows? Yes please.

And I can confirm they’re very friendly. I still laugh about that cow giving me a surprise kiss.

It’s not perfectly accessible — you’ll need to navigate outdoor paths and a few uneven spots — but it’s way less of a maze than Club Med.

And the food? I’m still thinking about that goat cheese salad! And the gluten free ribs!

If you want a place that feels like a true recharge with great food, stay here.

It’s also one of the easiest places to get to without a car because the train from Quebec City literally stops at their front door!

Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu

The Fairmont is a classic choice if you want that old school luxury vibe.

The building looks like a fairytale castle perched above the St. Lawrence and the views alone are worth it.

The rooms could use a bit of a refresh but the beds were comfy enough that I didn’t notice after a day of adventuring.

The restaurants here were good — my cod dinner was one of my favourite meals after Le Germain. And if you want to do the zipline or whale watching, you’re already in the perfect spot.

Just know the pool area feels more family resort than luxury spa — I’d skip it if you’re after a quiet soak.

Club Med Québec Charlevoix

Club Med is… fine. It really depends on what you want. If you love having activities, shows, and buffet food all in one place, you’ll probably love it.

It feels a bit like a cruise ship on land, with a ski hill or mountain biking as your main activity hub.

For me, it was too chaotic. The layout is confusing with elevators, bridges and staircases between the main areas and the rooms — not great if you’ve got mobility issues or are overstimulated by noise.

The buffet food has celiac options but you’ll want to ask lots of questions because they don’t list every ingredient.

It’s not somewhere I’d rush back to — but if you have kids or want to stay super active the whole time, you’ll probably get your money’s worth. I could definitely see my mom bringing us here when we were kids and loving that there was so much for us to do!

How to Get to Charlevoix from Quebec City

Charlevoix is about an hour and a half to two hours from Quebec City, depending on where you’re staying. The drive is beautiful — expect winding roads, river views and a couple of “did we miss the turn?” moments.

Most people rent a car so they can stop at cute towns along the way or pull over for viewpoints. If you’re planning to hit the national park, whale watching and mountain spots, having your own wheels makes life so much easier.

But here’s a fun option — if you’re staying at Le Germain, you can actually take the train from Quebec City straight to Baie-Saint-Paul. It stops right at the hotel’s front door.

It’s a slow but scenic ride that follows the St. Lawrence. From the highway, you basically just see trees. But the train goes right along the water’s edge.

Just know you’ll probably still want a car to get to the trails and parks outside town.

I’ve been told that the train is the ultimate way to see Quebec in the fall, and I desperately want to go back with Theo and check it out.

What to Add to Your Charlevoix Itinerary Next

If you’re planning your Charlevoix trip, don’t just stop at four days — this region is made for slow travel and repeat visits.

Next time, I’d love to come back for peak fall colours when the hills turn fiery red and gold. I’d also love to try the scenic train from Quebec City to Baie-Saint-Paul in October — locals say it’s one of the best leaf peeping routes in the province.

And don’t get me started on the food. I’m already planning a full guide to the best restaurants and gluten free eats in Charlevoix, plus a deeper look at Le Germain and why it’s my top pick for a recharge weekend.